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[TurkC-L] x0x Sultan's Delight
From: TRH <trh_at_....>
Date: Tue 31 May 2005 - 06:30:11 EEST
Roadtrip OC METRO BY PAT NEISSER Istanbul is a city of dreamlike beauty and exotic moments. The last sunlight filtered through the minarets of the Blue Mosque, and sparkled on the glittering Bosphorus sea that lay beyond. As the twinkling lights of the blue-tiled mosque came up, its six slender minarets gave off an eerie glow. The Blue Mosque stands as the single most recognizable monument on the Istanbul skyline. Built between 1609-1616, during the reign of Ottoman Sultan Ahmet I, the enormous complex is a small city. Nearby stands Saint Sophia, built by Byzantine Emperor Constantine in the 4th century and rebuilt by Justinian in 537 AD, considered the greatest church in Christendom for 1,000 years. Its dome rises nearly 200 feet above the sea and is more than 100 feet in diameter. It became a mosque in the 15th century and today it is a public museum, awe-inspiring in its enormity. Plan plenty of time to explore these two amazing buildings. >From my balcony in the sophisticated five-star Marmara Hotel, I could see minarets all over the city, as well as modern skyscrapers, palaces and neighborhoods filled with shops and restaurants. Fragments of Istanbul's ancient wall could also be seen and, as you explore the city, you'll see many restored segments of the wall. After a wonderfully comfortable flight on Turkish Airlines from New York, I was looking forward to a few exciting days revisiting some of Istanbul's famous landmarks and eating my way through some of Turkey's wondrous cuisine. Afterward, we would be heading to Romania and Bulgaria by train. A limo from the hotel had picked me up at the airport, and as we crawled into the city, it seemed as though all 10 million citizens were at the wheel. Do not drive yourself. I repeat: Do not try to drive in Istanbul. I learned from my driver that Kamal Ataturk founded this Republic in 1923, making it a secular country, despite a 93% Moslem presence. We passed a street where a mosque, synagogue and church stood side by side, sharing a courtyard. As I wandered through neighborhoods, I noticed that the younger women were tall, stunning and very chic, not wearing shawls. But as we visited the Spice Market and Grand Bazaar, many older women were shrouded in shawls. They smiled at our western garb and we felt relaxed in this unusual city. Istanbul is surrounded by seas; The Golden Horn inlet divides the city (connected by a causeway); the Sea of Marmara and the Bosphorus literally split the city into the Asian and European parts, the only city in the world to be located in both Europe and Asia. (This is one of Turkey's explanations of why they should be included in the European Common Market.) To understand the peculiarities and wonders of the city, a tour is necessary. My hotel found a great all-day tour for me, including a boat ride. Our English-speaking guide was brilliant at explaining the history, as well as the present-day goings-on of Istanbul. We saw many dogs around, and discovered that new apartment buildings no longer allow pets, so these animals are given shots by the government and allowed to roam about. Our guide led us around the aromatic Spice Market and temptations were great. Bargaining is the thing to do, so we all came home with spices. Our visit to the 4,000-year-old Covered Bazaar was mind-boggling. Thousands of shops, cafes, shoeshine booths, costume stores, and jewelry from the cheap to the exquisite, glittered before our dazzled eyes. Without a guide, you may have to sign up for Turkish citizenship, since you'll never find your way out. Even having been here before didn't help. Tourists were buying tea urns, daggers, belly-dancing costumes and amazing outfits. Istanbul offers fabulous leather clothes and will make them to order. You'll also discover small shops that offer large bargains, especially in the Sultanahmet area around the mosques and the delightful Topkapi Palace. Overlooking the Marmara Sea, this 15th century palace complex housed the Ottoman Sultans until the 19th century. A guide will give you a brief tour of the small palaces, kitchens, harems and museums. The Treasury is filled with famous jewels, and other rooms hold robes, crystal and other treasures. A nice restaurant offers meals and the gardens are exquisite. Two other palaces also took my breath away. One, the Dolmabahce Palace fronts the European side of the Bosphorus. You get a great view from a boat, and can explore the palace from the city side. The 750-bulb crystal chandelier in the reception salon weighs 9,000 pounds. I stood next to it, not under it. Ataturk died here on Nov.10, 1938.
Across the Bosphorus Sea, on the Asian side of
Istanbul, is the Beylerbeyi Palace. Built of white
marble in 1865, it was used by Sultan Abdulaziz as
his summer palace. An indoor pool and
One can become satiated with such overwhelming beauty, and relaxing in a typical Turkish café or modern restaurant is a big part of the fun. I was truly amazed by the variety of cuisine all over the city. Also, after a tiring tour and before a grand dinner, visit a Hamam, with its steam baths, massages and saunas. Ask your concierge where the best ones are before setting out. My two favorite restaurants are fortunately housed one above the other at the Convention Center. The Borsa, is an up-to-date Turkish eatery with a thousand choices from grilled kebabs to fresh seafood to every kind of Turkish appetizer you could imagine, all prepared beautifully.
The Loft, owned by the same family, is a swinging
modern restaurant and lively bar, offering cuisine
with a French Turkish flare. The presentation is
brilliant. The Ozkancas, who own these
Before we left Istanbul, we had lunch at the Akvaryum restaurant in the Kumkapi district. On an alley with many open-air cafes, this delightful place offers a typical menu with plenty of yogurt and mint sauce. We found great little cafes with belly dancing, kebabs and typical Turkish food, including lots of fresh fruit, rice, grilled prawns and other fresh seafood. The latest news comes with the opening of Istanbul's first modern art museum, located on the shore of the Sea of Marmara. Its terrific collection of abstract paintings, portraits, sculptures and photographs from private and public collections will bring many more visitors to the city. It aims to foster innovative exchanges between Turkish and Western art. Its timing couldn't be better for Turkey's wished-for entry into the EU with its emphasis on melding Western and Turkish cultures. Istanbul is a swinging city, constantly changing and constantly remaining the same. Its history is a permanent part of its lure, but the 21st century is here to stay. OCM If You Go: Lodging: The Marmara Hotel in the Taksim district is a stunning, 5-star hotel with all the amenities. I loved the buffet as well as their elegant restaurant. The concierge will get everything done for you. The staff is amazing and people watching is superb from the lobby. Phone: 011-0212-251-4696.
We also stayed at the Arcadia Hotel in the
Sultanahmet district with its amazing views over
the water. Contact by e-mail:
Transportation: Turkish Airlines flies from Chicago and New York non-stop to Istanbul. You'll fly in great comfort. Phone: (800) 874-8875. Go to www.raileurope.com for information about European rail passes if you are traveling overland. To remove your address from this list, please send an e-mail to TurkC-L-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com To send a message to us please put the following code at the beginning of your subject "txuxrxk" AND remove the TurkC-L tag. Then use our trh@cyberspace.org address. This is to prevent spam. Other e-mails may not be read. Yahoo! Groups Links
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